Slow Travel Through Sicily: Soul-Stirring Tips, Insights & Experiences from a Solo Journey
Slowly savored Catania, Taormina, Siracusa & Ortigia - November 2024
Blog Background
While I’ve now been fortunate to spend time in Sicily on 2 separate occasions within 6 months, the majority of this blog focuses and is based on my experiences traveling and exploring solo in November 2024. I also share more on the Soul-stirring Sicily blog. The first visit to Sicily in November 2024 invigorated naturally traveling slow, soulfully, without needing to check all the boxes. Without having a full ‘program’. Rather, less race, more space. Traveling slow, savory and engaging the senses has become my favorite way to travel.
Perhaps connecting with a place in ways that are deeply authentic to us, to allow the personalized experience that will stay embedded within and perhaps lead to some other magic. What you’ll find here are some of my favorite memories and experiences that perhaps will help you in some way with planning your trip. As such, there’s no ‘must’ or ‘have to’ or ‘top’ or ‘best’ that you’ll find within here. Why? Because everything is personal and what I think is amazing and my experience somewhere could be considerably different from your experience;) And with that - perhaps this inspires you to visit Sicily soon or someplace that is calling you.
How I ended up exploring Sicily solo:
I found myself in Sicily in November 2024 last minute, with no plan. It’s becoming a theme… Sicily has been of interest for a while, yet … it wasn’t part of the original 7 week fall/winter solo Eurotrip. Fast forward, when I had to pivot plans last minute, originally I was to go from Malta to Valencia, Spain, but when the tragic storms in 2024 devastated much of the city, I opted for a complete alternative. Sicily was nearby Malta, and being very fortunate to be able to change plans with ease, I booked the 30 minute flight to Catania.
Catania? I honestly had never heard of Catania prior to researching how to get from Valetta, Malta to Sicily. Next thing I know I'm there for 2 weeks. Funny how that happens in life. I share more over here.
For brevity, there was something compelling about Catania after I arrived and settled in that connected this part of the world with my soul. And because I was traveling slowly, working and experiencing both the sights and local life, I was able to take the time.
And when I left, I said and knew I’d be back. I envisioned in May/June 2025- sure enough, I was fortunate to return in May 2025.
Here I share highlights, experiences, insight and what keeps calling me back. As I spent the majority of my time in Catania, most is from there, also because I repeatedly visited the restaurants and other food suggestions.
TOWNS VISITED
CATANIA
This might be an unpopular opinion… don’t skip Catania.
Situated at the base of Mt Etna…. known and confirmed for its grit. However, what it lacks in pristine buildings and streets, (I think) it makes up for in richness, history and authenticity. Now don’t let the grit be discouraging! It is simply to say that the ash from Mt Etna leaves her mark on the buildings and streets, and the city embraces the ash as part of its appearance. I never for a moment thought the city was ‘dirty’ as you don’t see trash strewn - even after the markets - the clean up is rather impressive; if it weren’t for the smell of raw seafood and maybe a lemon laying around, you’d think you were wandering a normal street. In general - I found traveling throughout most of Sicily to be clean, and Catania was no exception.
I saw tourists, yes. But, it never felt overly touristy. (or maybe my timing was right too…)
Here’s the thing. Revisiting Catania for a 2nd time confirms truly how individual and personal travel is. And for good reason! Only going somewhere for the insta photo - well if that’s your style go on! But there are so many incredible gems out there to be discovered, and I also think there’s amazing photo opportunities available everywhere.
Corners of Catania that Captured my Heart & Soul:
Basilica Cattedrale di Sant'Agata (also known as the Cathedral of Saint Agatha): in honor of St. Agatha, the patron saint of Catania. The Cathedral is impressive with a rich and long history, rebuilt several times after both volcanic eruptions and earthquakes. What’s also remarkable is that the building stands on ancient Roman baths (that you can tour for a fee). The Cathedral is free to visit. Guided tours are available onsite for a fee); I found the in-depth detail fascinating and well worth the time and visit.
Monastero dei Benedettini di San Nicolò (Monastery of San Nicolò l'Arena): this former Benedictine monastery is now part of the University of Catania. Tours are available, or if you time it right like I happened to, you’ll be able to walk around on your own;) Beautiful, stately and rich with history. Considered the largest Benedictine monastery in Europe, don’t miss the views from the upper levels of the courtyard.
Church of Saint Nicholas the Arena: Next door to the Monastery is this impressive and massive church with ornate marble sections with beautiful paintings and frescos. Also noteworthy is the impressive sundial completed in 1841. Located on the floor stretching across the front of the church floor before the high alter and made of marble, with the full zodiac, it is one of the largest in Europe. I recently learned there are several throughout Sicily; you can read more here. I saw the one as well in Palermo; admittedly, I think this is the first time I recall seeing a sundial in a church and I find it both impressive and fascinating.
Orto Botanico di Catania: Free to visit, a grounding and calm space filled with a variety of plants, trees and flowers. Make sure you wander far to the left.
Villa Bellini/Chiosco Bellini: Beautiful park centrally located with an elevated section where, depending on the time of year when the trees aren’t fully in bloom, Mt Etna is visible. With remarkable columns, intoxicating jasmine and flowers, be sure to wander through the entire park.
Palazzo Biscari: Considered the most important private palaces in Catania where family descendants still reside, it is still also today for concerts and other events. Available to tour as well for a fee; the details in the rooms and frescos are remarkable; be sure to look up in every room! Also, the positioning within the city, it is built on the fortress wall - originally with views of the sea and port (which now has been built up and nearly all obstructed).
Sa di Sapone: One of my favorite finds from wandering through the winding streets, this unassuming shop has an abundance of natural products including soaps, oils, skin care, and cosmetics. Favorites include the neroli oil, neroli orange blossom butter and the shampoo bars.
Erboristeria Bio Antologia: Looks like an old school apothecary - which - throughout Europe its quite common to find beauty, perfumes and drug store staples including medicine all within these apothecaries or pharmacies. This one has a wide selection of offerings including my favorite L’erbolario products, which include skin and hair delights like an incredible pistachio shampoo bar, intoxicating perfumes and skin cremes, as well as fragrances for the home. What I love? Each unique fragrance uses their own plant extracts.
side note: throughout Italy you can find the L’erbolario products in beautiful shops - keep your eyes out wherever you are! I’ve become a bit obsessed given my love of all things nature:)
Markets - there are 2 noteworthy!!
Catania Fish Market: the one pictured with the colorful umbrellas below, also has some produce and spices. Entertaining - not pictured - are the fishmongers who play music and ‘perform’ for tourists.
Open Air Market: This is the one that reeled me in. The size, volume and options of fresh fruits and vegetables - I felt like a kid in a candy store - buying all the produce because I could. And at such great prices! There’s also fish, cheese and meats and nuts. Also an experience, with the yelling and volume of crowds - be prepared to negotiate and hold firm when they try selling extra cucumbers! There’s also a sizable market attached (outdoors) with literally everything you could imagine including clothing of all forms, shoes, socks, household products, hats, and so much more. If you ‘forgot’ or need something, its worth strolling through here to see what you find. And - its all new - with tags still on. Best to go in the morning or around noon as it ends typically by 2pm; its not open on Sundays.
Last but not least… views of Mt. Etna. Surprisingly, she is visible from a variety of places! In fact, more often than not, when it was not cloudy, I caught glimpse of her to the north.
Eat / Drink:
Sicily is considered a foodie paradise. I unfortunately didn’t find a ton of gluten free options; so I didn’t experience and can’t comment unfortunately on many of the traditional dishes the first trip. However! Still plenty to enjoy (and I did cook/eat in a lot with the amazing produce and some solid grocery store finds).
Let’s start with Arancini. A note on the infamous arancini: its believed the famous rice balls date back to the 10th century during Arab rule. Their name comes from the color and shape (originally round) - that resembles an arancia (orange).
Munnu Arancinu: Delicious arancini - with gluten free (senza glutine) options that’ll have you believing you’re eating the regular real deal.
Iris-doc: Senza glutine options (gluten free) options that are also mouthwatering.
Artemisia Caffetteria Bistró: Yummy brunch spot in a beautiful space.
Gran Caffè Pam Pam: My favorite espresso bar in Catania to take a cafe (single shot of espresso) at the bar in the back like the locals do. Also great for a bite, drink or gelato.
Razmataz Wine Bar: Lovely outdoor spot (indoors seating too) with rotating options by the glass. Most days, they’re open from 12pm to 1am; many places close mid afternoon so this is a solid spot for an early aperitivo or mid afternoon glass of vino.
Fud Bottega Sicula: Big menu with lots of options - pizzas, burgers, salads and more. My go to is the BIG Baffalo (Buffalo) burger or BIG Whisker with buffalo mozzarella and potato wedges.
Easy Bistrot Gluten-free: Tasty pizza. Popular spot for hanging out Saturday afternoons - when they have a DJ.
Vermut - Salumeria, vineria, vermouth bar: Popular and busy local spot, with a massive menu mostly of small dishes great for sharing or getting a few things. I admittedly was more impressed my first time I went.
Legatoria Prampolini: Cute bookstore with a coffee shop/restaurant/bar. I worked from here a few times. Nice selection of natural wines.
Gelato:
Cassatelle e Caffè - Dolci Tipici di Agra: Off the beaten path - a neighborhood spot. Delicious, creamy, great favor options and very reasonable.
Don Peppinu: Highly regarded with unique flavors (my fav go to combo is the Cioccolato di Modica I.G.P. (Chocolate with cinnamon and chili pepper) and the Sicilian Lemon (both vegan). Pictured below with the famous elephant statue. On the pricier side.
TAORMINA
I had a taste of tranquil Taormina. Curious about the hype, I took a day trip from Catania to experience this well known town, made even more famous by White Lotus Season 2. Super easy to get to by bus; they run frequently, just don’t expect them to be exactly on time.
Perched high on cliffs overlooking the sparkling Ionian Sea, the town invites you to slow down and simply be. It’s pretty. Pristine. Photogenic. What’s not to love?
Plus of traveling during the fall (shoulder or even off season) is that towns like this tend to be more tranquil. Less people, less noise. Less of everything. Which also means, less is open. In mid November and hotels and stores were already closed. Not a big deal to me as I’d rather explore places when there’s not a mob or lines. So I didn’t get to visit where White Lotus 2 was primarily filmed/ the location for inquiring minds (ie the San Domenico Palace). Yes I tried to go, but it literally closed the day before. Maybe next time.
Something to be mindful of, as this is quite common throughout the Mediterranean that some hotels, stores and restaurants close mid November through April. Depending on what you’re looking for, these closures could impact your experiences if you’re expecting to stay, visit, etc certain places and expecting lots of options. Visiting mid summer, during prime season likely offers a drastically different experience.
What stood out most about Taormina?
The ancient ruins blend seamlessly with modern life. The massive and impressive Greek Theatre seems to be tucked behind quaint streets lined with souvenir shops and your upscale stores like Dior, and next to the Grand Hotel Timeo (also closes for the winter).
Then there’s the backdrop of the sea and Mount Etna. Breathtaking and unique views unlike any other. The charm and appeal are definitely there. And the town is so clean.
Is a day trip enough? Depending on what you want to see and do. And more importantly feel and experience. Spending an evening someplace and waking up offer a different glimpse into a place and experience. Sometimes its nice to have a 'taste’ and not feel like you’re living out of a suitcase. I didn’t set out to check all the boxes - though I felt like I saw and experienced most of what there was to see. I was able to get a feel that satisfied my curiosity and left me with beautiful memories.
Favorite experiences:
Fragrance shopping. There’s an abundance of stores along the main street that give you lots of opportunities to indulge in a full sensory experience. With so many options, you’re able to find either something familiar or new and unique. After sampling extensively, I found some favs focused on natural blends, using herbs and flowers, by Nature’s; I’m still trying to find the store as it was an apothecary and not only a fragrance store; I just remember its on the left side as you’re walking up the road from the bus stop shortly before the main area of town.
Taking the cable car - funivia - which offers stunning views and an easy way to get from the main town to the sea. There’s several beaches with beach bars and loungers. Though at Isola Bella they were closed for season. For reference, the bus is accessible above, so if you go for sunset at Isola Bella you’ll want to be sure to plan your return well! You can buy tickets there; no need to in advance.
Walking of course!
Visiting Isola Bella island - (pictured above) a protected nature site that is connected by a small path that is not always clear to a small rocky beach. Popular in the summer, its a trek down many stairs that don’t forget you’ll have to climb back up to return:)
Visiting the Teatro Antico for its impressive size and to marvel that it’s still standing, and for the views of Mt Etna and the sea. It is the 2nd largest theatre in Italy and Africa, and dates back to the 3rd century BC. (Pictured below)
Taking in views of Mt Etna from the promenade
Taking a long leisure lunch (or dinner) at San Michele Ristorante. Incredibly fresh and flavorful fish. Beautiful and relaxing ambiance. (across from the San Domenico Palace - where the White Lotus 2 was filmed).
SYRACUSE // SIRACUSA //ORTIGIA
I spent nearly all day wandering Ortigia, the island connected to Siracusa by short bridges.
Pro-tip: Check hours of historical sites and attractions if visiting is definitely a priority. I admittedly didn’t ‘plan’ and check the opening hours of the theatre and some other sites, so I missed out the day I was there.
Granted, I also went in to the day trip with the vision of taking it as it came and not checking boxes…so I was content to leisurely experience Ortigia. Someday I’ll return!
Ortigia is quaint and charming. It was easy to spend the day exploring the labyrinthine streets and quiet piazzas. There is a rich history, evident in the ruins found throughout the island.
This was truly a day of slowly meandering, through the markets, taking note of all the fish freshly caught and served, and people watching - a blend of locals and tourists. With minimal cars, the vibe is very tranquil.
Syracuse Cathedral is worth a visit. Situated on the Piazza Duomo, a beautiful, stately and grand square in the middle of Ortigia. The fascinating structure was built on the site of a 5th-century BC Greek Doric temple dedicated to Athena. The columns integrated into the church's walls are still visible. The cathedral's exterior facade is Baroque, but the interior retains elements of the ancient temple. I find it fascinating throughout Sicily how ‘churches’ have been built on top of or over ancient sites. (There isn’t a direct website; tickets can be found through tripadvisor, etc or purchased there. Hours are typically 7:30a - 7pm; but best to check online.
Memorable moments from Ortigia:
Visit the Syracuse Cathedral/il Duomo di Siracusa. Situated on the Piazza Duomo, a beautiful, stately and grand square in the middle of Ortigia, which is worth wandering through. The fascinating structure was built on the site of a 5th-century BC Greek Doric temple dedicated to Athena. The columns integrated into the church's walls are still visible. The cathedral's exterior facade is Baroque, but the interior retains elements of the ancient temple. I find it fascinating throughout Sicily how ‘churches’ have been built on top of or over ancient sites. (There isn’t a direct website; tickets can be found through tripadvisor, etc or purchased there. Hours are typically 7:30a - 7pm; but best to check online)
Aperitivo: There’s many options for aperitivo along the water - especially along Lungomare Alfeo and near the port, along Foro V. Emanuele II. marinacafè is a lovely spot, with a lot of seating and plenty to pick from. I’ve become a big fan of aperitivo - taking a drink and snack - the Italian traditional late afternoon/early evening, often in a social setting or beautiful outdoor space.
Many of these spots also serve coffee, granita and gelato so there’s plenty of options for when you’re ready for a break and want to enjoy views of the sea.
Wander through Giardino Arethusa - a garden with massive old and unique trees.
Another popular option is to visit the Castello Maniace however, I missed out on their opening hours.
Eat: So many amazing options - I went to PUROS Ristorante Pizzeria for dinner. The taco pizza was one of the most incredible delicious and memorable meals. Yes - not gluten free. Worth every bite and fortunately no issues after. Somehow no photos to memorialize the moment and experience. But the taste and flavors were incredible.
SICILY SUGGESTIONS:
Live la dolce vida - the sweet and slow life
Walk! Wander and explore
Swim in the Ionian Sea - there’s many swim spots (though some are rocky) along the coast. Depending on where you are, there’s several for sure
Eat - so. much. good and quality food - between the restaurants and incredible fruits and vegetables at the markets, it’s a food lovers paradise.
Learn about, reflect on and marvel at the ancient past of this impressive island, that has stood the test of time and transition. of control, weathered multiple earthquakes and volcanic eruptions, all which have shaped the eastern coast of Sicily into what it is today.
WHAT I LOOK FORWARD TO DURING A FUTURE TRIP:
Visiting vineyards, olive oil producers and farms
Ceramics making class
Visiting and slowly exploring other parts of this incredible island and smaller islands
More time swimming in the sea (satisfying my inner mermaid)
Print making workshops using nature - leaves, fruit, flowers, etc
EAT:
(this is not your typical list since I eat almost entirely gluten free)
Gelato - Most places have vegan options!
Granita - Admittedly, only became a fan on the 2nd visit- and I am hooked. Move over gelato!
Drink - Espresso. Single shot. And for an authentic experience, take it at the counter bar.
Arancini
Cornetto
Fresh produce from the market
GETTING THERE:
Coming from the U.S., connecting through a European hub is typically necessary. However! Both United and Delta recently launched new direct flights (May 22nd) - to Palermo and Catania, from Newark and JFK respectively. Right now, they’re operating seasonally. Heck yes to waking up in Sicily!
From Europe, there’s consistent, direct options to both Catania and Palermo.
From other countries, not so much, either require a connection or limited options that you’ll need to plan around. However, there are some new direct routes launching this summer.
I happily took 3 planes to recently get there from the U.S. if that tells you anything;)
GETTING AROUND:
Walk!!! The ‘main’ towns are extremely walkable - in fact, that is the best way to see and experience. There is no better way (imo) of ‘learning’ and feeling a city than stumbling upon gems (insert your fav - I’ll go first - a quiet cobblestone street, lined with buildings with french doors and quaint balconies, perhaps adorned with jasmine or other flowers. And just flowers on the street in general. Yes. This happened frequently!)
Buses! Easy to use once you get the hang of it (knowing which station and which bus line - those are the things I can help with;). The island is decently connected by bus. However, depending on the location, routes and availability are not late in the day (so best to confirm BEFORE getting on a bus), timing can be off too- best to expect delays.
Trains! I admittedly didn’t take along the eastern coast - as much as I wanted to…. the buses were much more efficient, quicker and cheaper. However! I always love train travel - and am so glad northern Sicily included a few train rides:)
STAY:
After a lot of debate… for the 1st trip, I chose to use Catania as my ‘home’ base vs packing up and moving for 2 weeks. Both - ie staying and doing day-trips from Catania and moving around can work great! It really depends on the experiences you’re seeking. The ‘charm’ I adore in Sicily (and Europe in general) includes stone streets, hills, and stairs, which particularly when traveling solo, can be more stressful and a PITA when traveling with more than a carry-on (I’m guilty of for both trips - since they were more than 10 days (different blog and day for thoughts on this;).
If you want to ‘experience’ a place late, then plan to stay overnight. However, depending on the time of year you’re there, the towns could be quite sleepy and not a lot of options for dining and nightlife. It is still feasible to have an amazing time in finding those few spots that happen to be open. Just don’t expect a ton of options.
I stayed in AirB&Bs in Catania. There are some gorgeous, unassuming flats, that have been renovated, highlighting both the architecture and a fresh flare. The one I stayed at near the Opera house was amazing - photos below - happy to share the link if interested.
CURRENCY / PAYMENT:
Euro
Credit cards are accepted almost everywhere except for some of the smaller shops and vendors and markets.
However, you’ll need cash for the markets!
A FEW FINAL THOUGHTS:
Water is drinkable - as is all over Italy. However, many, self included, prefer bottled water (which is so crazy inexpensive, mere cents for 2 liters) as the taste is better (and the mineral content is high in the tap water).
All of the towns mentioned are very walkable - just be prepared for uneven streets and sidewalks and hills.
Grocery stores (several large) were so fun to shop in for basics and other options that are more common here (pestos galore!)
I felt safe throughout both visits. HOWEVER. And this was one of the reasons I was hesitant to come, as there’s a variety of stories on the safety of Sicily. I can only speak to my personal experiences and perspective. Keep in mind, I didn’t walk or wander much after dark. The areas I stayed in overall were popular. And the general guidance of being aware of surroundings applies. I felt safe and will return to Sicily in a heartbeat. However, as with all places, staying aware of news and other ongoings is highly recommended as is maintaining a strong level of awareness of surroundings.
MINDFUL MOMENTS & HOW I STAYED GROUNDED
During the 1st trip in November, it was extremely easy to find mindfulness and presence and feel grounded, soul-aligned and connected. I admittedly didn’t do anything ‘special’ or devote a lot of time to meditation. Rather, the act of being aware of my surroundings, noticing, taking everything in, the ornate details of the buildings, the door knockers, the windows, flowers (of course!), sights and sounds - all supported me in feeling grounded and connected.
Also, buying, cooking and eating fresh fruit and vegetables from the market, despite there being effort involved, is grounding for me personally. Because this wasn’t only a ‘holiday’ or ‘vacation’, where I was working alongside exploring, its helpful for me to have the balance of eating as I normally do - which is a lot of veg and fruit, which is where staying in a place with a kitchen gives me the accessibility and ease to support myself in those ways.
INTENTION:
Embrace ‘la dolce vida’.
WHAT SPARKED JOY ON THIS JOURNEY?
~ Being present and going with the flow. Finding the magic in things unfolding divinely. Having less structure and focus on hyped experiences.
~ Being easily in my feminine, grounded, aligned and soul connected without effort. Feeling ‘at home’ within.
~ Since I didn’t do (much) research prior to arriving, seeing and experiencing the city without expectations or ideas opened my eyes in fun and novice ways.
~ Finding a yoga class in Catania that I really enjoyed - taught primarily in Italian. The first class was outdoors in a park - where, because the trees were bare, Mt Etna was visible.
There is still so much of Sicily calling me to explore. I recently spent time in the Aeolian Islands, and also Cefalú, Palermo, Avola and Noto. I know I’ll be back - hopefully soon:)
I hope this was both helpful and inspiring. Thinking about or already planning an upcoming trip to Sicily or somewhere else? I can help! As a certified travel advisor and experienced traveler, it would give me joy to support you in having an amazing journey through Sicily (or anywhere!).
Ciao!
Megan Joy
